Which is the Best in Mera Peak and Island Peak? Mera Peak & Island Peak

  • Last Updated on Dec 8, 2022

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Nepal is well known throughout the world for it’s very best mountains and trekking out of the ten highest peaks, eight is situated in Nepal only. Similarly Nepal is also rich in peaks with elevation of about 7000, 6000 & 8000 respectively.

Mera Peak Climbing  & Island Peak Climbing with elevation of 6476 m and 6189 m respectively is the most popular trekking destinations of the world. It serves as training for climbing peaks over 8000 m. Geographically, both peaks are pretty closer to each other but is separated by tough mountain chain. The summits of both peaks offers you beautiful and amazing views of surrounding mountain peaks of Everest Region.

Interesting facts about Mera and Island peaks.

  • The peaks are located in Mahalangur section and Barun sub-section of Himalaya inside the Sagarmatha zone.
  • Mera North ( 6476 m), Mera Central (6461 m) and Mera South are three main summit points of Mera Peak.
  • The British Army Office Jim Roberts & Sen Tenzing Sherpa ascended Mera central successfully for first time. Likewise, Frenchmen Marcel Jolly, G. Baus & L Honills conquered Mera North successfully for first time in 1975.
  • The mountain chain which separates Mera Peak and Island Peak also divides Hongu & Khumbu valley.
  • Amphu Laptcha Pass, challenging yet memorable pass a height of 5680 m can be explored if you trek to these peaks.
  • Island Peak is called ‘Imja Tse’ in local language and was given by Eric Snipton teams in 1961, as it was quite like an Island in a sea of ice.

Highlights of Mera and Island Peak

  • Ascend to the summit of Mera (6476 m) & Island Peak (6189 m) which is led by expert climbing guide.
  • Mind blowing views of snow-capped mountain peaks of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Ama Dablam and Cho oyu from summit of Mera Peak.
  • Wonderful view of Amphu Laptcha Pass from both peaks.
  • Flight to Lukla and from Lukla.
  • Walk through the beautiful green forest of Rhododendron, Magnolia, Birch and Pine.
  • Explore seto-pokhari at a height of above 5000 m.
  • Observe the culture and lifestyle of Sherpa people.

Mera and Island Peak Difficulty

Mera Peak is a bit higher than Island Peak and is a direct climb. It is precisely less challenging than Island Peak.
The short and basic mountaineering training is recommended as the summit of Mera Peak is quite vigorous. Nevertheless, it offers magnificent scene of the Himalayas that may ease your climb.

The trek to Island Peak is more difficult and technical as you have to climb steep ice and may also have to use ladder crossing. The steep climb will take you to summit ridge and from there you can reach the summit.

For trekking Island Peak you need some training for using ropes across the crevasse. You have to climb on fixed ropes up the ridge. Similarly, you must be able to use ice axe crampons and ropes and you need mountain climbing training also.

Training is strongly recommended before the actual trek because it makes you climbing easier and faster and more safer.

Permits

First of all you need to collect Everest region Area permit that costs you NRs. 3390 (US $ 33).
Then, for Mera Peak Climbing and Island Peak climbing you will need to have following permits according to the season.
March, April and May:- US 250 $
June, July, August, December, January and February:- US $ 70.
September, October and November:- Us $ 125

All of the permits are easily getable from Kathmandu. You might contact us for this to be taken care.

Physical fitness and experience

You need to be good in trekking and need to have some skills and experience of climbing. If you don’t have such ability then you can participate in the mountain training session that are held in Nepal itself, before the actual trek.
Similarly, most of the trekking agencies provide the basic training, exercises essential for doing this trek either at base camps or in Kathmandu.

Mera Peak

As Mera Peak climbing is neither sloppy nor technical you don’t need special technical trainings. But, you need to have some basic trainings. At the time of ascending the you are suggested to walk slowly because the route is quite longer as compared to Island Peak.

Island Peak

Island Peak Climbing is technical and sloppy you need to have technical climbing skills. The advance experience of mountain climbing is most as the peak is lot more challenging.

Accommodation

There are many tea house that provides basic facilities of clean rooms, shared bathrooms, blankets and warm water. You can stay at these tea house according to your choice but at the Base Camp in tent. Thus, you will need to carry camping tents and necessary equipments. From Khare to Island Peak Base Camp, you will spend your night in tents.
For further details you are suggested to look for proper Mera Peak Gear List.

Food and Drink

At Kathmandu, you have various options of food and drinks. There are many tea house, restaurants, and cafes with so many food items on their menu. So as you wish you will be served.
In lower region of the trek various restaurants cafes provides you food like momo, noodles, typical Nepali food (Dal, Bhat and Tarkari) and some baked goods up to Namche Bazar. But from Khare to Island Peak Base Camp, on field staff prepares you meals.

Field Staff

Mera Peak and Island Peak Climbing requires some supports and such support is provided to you by field staffs that includes a guide, potter and assistant guide. They will assist you in fixing ropes, ladders along with guidance. Similarly, your equipments are also carried by them and they also provide you knowledge about trails, villages and landscapes.
Your whole trip depends upon the field staff. The success and comfort in your trek is determined by them. So, you might want to meet them before the actual trek and make the right choice.

Best Season to Trek to Mera Peak and Island Peak

The best time to ascend Mera Peak Climbing and Island Peak is local autumn and spring seasons. However, this trek is doable and possible throughout the year.
In autumn, weather conditions and visibility are perfect for climbing, thus autumn season is considered to be ideal season for trekking.
As we already said, we can climb these peaks throughout the year but during summer season due to monsoon weather is quite unpredictable. You may not even get chance to enjoy the views of mountains from the peak.
Similarly, winter trek might be tricky to you as there is extreme cold. If you are seeking for some great trekking challenge, then you got it.

Equipment and Supplies

Some of extra equipments along with you regular trekking equipment and supplies, are vital for this trek.

  • Climbing harness
  • 5 meters or more of 5m climbers’ accessory cord
  • Figure 8 or Abseil belay device
  • 1 large mitten sized ascender ( larger pretzel) and arm length leash
  • 2 locking carabineers
  • Crampons should fit your foots perfectly, steel crampons with anti-balling ( anti-bot) platter are the most suggested
  • Adjustable trekking poles
  • Helmet
  • Ski goggles
  • Glacier sunglass with side shields

These equipments are sold in Kathmandu and you can get them quite easily. But if you don’t want to buy them, you can get these equipment in rent also.

Safety and Measures

For this climb, some of safety measures you should never forget are:-

Training

You need to have knowledge about basic trainings like using mountaineering equipments, fixing ropes and ascending and descending on these ropes, crampons, ice axe and many more.
Such trainings are available in Kathmandu and Lukla but it is quite cheaper in Kathmandu.

Altitudes Sickness

At altitude of above 6000 m you’re likely to get affected with altitude sickness, So get as much knowledge as you can. You should be able to recognize symptoms and take necessary precautions.
While trekking doesn’t ever neglect altitude sickness it can be huge health risk if left untreated.

Proper Equipment List

Your package list should consist and equipments and supplies that are mentioned above. So, don’t forget to compare them. This way you can be ensured for a comfortable trek with that also check the condition of your equipments before the actual trek.
 
Crevasse

  • A deep crack especially in a glacier is crevasse. Some of them are hidden, so make sure you follow the guidance of your experienced guide and walk unhurriedly.
  • Some additional tips for Mera and Island Peak Trek
  • You can explore beautiful villages, Namche Bazar, So have a day or two extra.
  • Take part in mountain climbing training sessions, if you don’t have advance climbing experience.
  • Make sure your, mountaineering boots are comfortable enough for actual trek.
  • Do not hurry in climbing, take your time and be comfortable.
  • First-aid kits should consist medicines for altitude sickness.
  • ATM’s and cards can’t be trusted so make sure you have enough cash throughout the trek.

Conclusion

Mera Peak & Island Peak gives a great view of the Himalayas summit. These peaks serve as a great introduction to high altitude summit climbs. The climb is amazing with mind-blowing views of Himalayas, beautiful villages.
These peaks need some good climbing ability and we can provide the best climbing guides and support team to comfort your trek to summit. So don’t forget to contact us.

Suman Aryal

Suman Aryal

Suman Aryal is Travel and Tour operator in the Himalaya since long. He organizes tours, trekking, hiking and climbing in Nepal. He loves writing related to travel and trekking in Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan.